Each autumn Kolkata comes alive for Durga Puja, its biggest and most joyful festival. UNESCO added the city's celebration to its list of intangible cultural heritage in 2021, and for a few days the whole city becomes an open-air gallery.
What to expect
Elaborate pandals - temporary pavilions built around the goddess Durga - fill the streets, each with its own artistic theme, from traditional temple forms to strikingly modern art installations. Expect crowds, drumming, food stalls and late nights, all in a spirit of open, generous celebration.
When it happens
Durga Puja falls in the Hindu month of Ashwin, usually in late September or October; exact dates shift each year with the lunar calendar, so check before booking. The final days, Saptami through Dashami, are the peak. The Howrah Bridge and riverfront are especially atmospheric during the immersion processions.
Follow the crowds after dark, pandal-hop on foot, and accept the sweets you are offered. Durga Puja is Kolkata at its warmest.
Visiting during the festival
Book accommodation well ahead, wear comfortable shoes, and be patient with crowds and traffic. It is the busiest and most rewarding time to visit; see our first-timer's guide to Kolkata to plan around it, and Book & Hold your fare early.